Frequently Asked Questions
Listed below are some commonly asked questions and the corresponding answers. Email us at finsandflowers@comcast.net with questions or water garden myths you would like to see addressed on this page.
Why do I have a heavy bag of lava rocks in my waterfall filter box?
How long does the average pond pump last?
My pond is losing water. What should I do?
Do I need to add dechlorinator every time I add tap water to my pond?
Do aquatic plants really make much of a difference in keeping the water in my pond clear?
Gravel or no gravel on the pond bottom?
I have been told that water gardens are essentially maintenance free. Is that true?
If I put koi in my pond or water garden, will they eat all the algae and keep the pond clean?
I have a small goldfish pond installed by a landscaper. Can I introduce koi into my pond?
Why does my pond water turn green every spring?
I am thinking of installing my own water garden. Are the kits sold by the home stores a good value?
How do I figure out the volume of my water garden or pond?
Question: My pond installer did not provide very clear maintenance instructions. How often does my filter need cleaned?
Answer: Most water gardens utilize a box filter that consists of a number of filtration pads and some type of bio filtration media like lava rock, plastic "bio balls" or a ribbon media. The quick answer to this question is that your filter needs cleaned on a monthly basis. If your filter pads only have a light accumulation of debris, then try rinsing them out in a bucket or tub of pond water. More often than not you will need to hose them off in order to remove heavier debris. Do not clean the bio media unless you have noticed a significant degredation in water quality. If your filter uses a quality bio media, then the only time it needs cleaned is in the spring and fall. Water gardens with a large fish population, undersized filters, gravel on the pond bottom, near trees and shrubs, bordered by mulch beds or frequented by birds on a regular basis may require cleaning every two to three weeks. A general rule of thumb is to clean the filter every four weeks and observe how dirty the filter pads are. If the amount of debris is substantial, then clean every three weeks. If you still don't see an improvement, then try every two weeks. On the rare occasion you may have to clean your filter pads on a weekly basis. The key is to pay attention to your pond and learn what schedule you need to observe and keep in mind that the time of year will impact how often the filter needs cleaned also. Usually filters need no attention from December to March. Also remember to check your skimmer on a weekly basis and by keeping the basket and filter pad in the skimmer clean will help keep the filter cleaner.
Back to topQuestion: Why do I have a heavy bag of lava rocks in my waterfall filter box?
Answer: The heavy bag or bags of lava rock in your waterfall filter are meant to function as the bio filtration media. More often than not they only function as a very heavy weight holding your filter pads in place. Many installers argue that lava rock is the best bio filter media since its porous makeup provides huge amounts of surface area for bacteria colonies to grow. I won't argue that point one bit. The problem with lava rock is that same porous structure ends up getting clogged with dirt and debris in a very short period of time. When that happens, two problems arise. First, any beneficial bacteria colonies growing on the lava rock end up getting choked out since they are denied access to the oxygenated water flow which sustains them. And once the lava rock is covered in debris, no new colonies can establish themselves since no surface area is available for them to attach to. Of course you can always clean your lava rock bio media with a hose....and then wait approximately six weeks for the colonies to re-establish themselves. But in my experience I have found that lava rock clogs, or channels, in a manner of a few weeks in most box filter applications. That means before the beneficial bacteria colonies get a chance to start working, they either die off or are prevented from establishing sufficient numbers to do much good. Do yourself, your back and your water garden a favor and save the lava rock for your grill. Either retrofit your existing filter with a better media (like a ribbon media) or make sure your installer is using a quality media in the first place. Many installers still use lava rock for the simplest of reasons: low cost and a failure to understand how a bio filter really operates. As water garden installers have gained knowledge in our field, old products have been replaced with those that perform vastly better. So if your installer plans to use lava rock in your filter, you may want to question just how much they really know about the products they are installing.
Back to topQuestion: How long does the average pond pump last?
Answer: This is one of those questions that has no simple answer. If your pump is a low quality big box store special, count yourself among the lucky few if it lasts for even a year. If you are having a pump installed by a reputable company then make sure to get the warranty terms in writing or even request the warranty registration card from the pump manufacturer so that you can file the proper paperwork yourself. Nothing is more frustrating for a pond owner than to have a pump fail prematurely and then find out that your installer refuses to honor the warranty terms. The typical warranty period for most quality pumps is twelve to eighteen months. Quality pumps typically last around three to four years in standard applications. Factors that shorten pump life include improper plumbing, undersized skimmer openings, improper installation, running the pump with an extension cord, operating the pump with low water levels and excessive debris such as sand in the water (causes bearing damage). Some of the newer pumps on the market utilize a magnetic impellar design and are proving to be very durable and long lasting. As this technology improves pumps will be longer lasting and more energy efficient.
Back to topQuestion: My pond is losing water. What should I do?
Answer: Perhaps no other problem causes more stress for a pond owner than to walk out and find the water level drastically low. Before you call for help, you need to diagnose the problem and provide some basic information in order to determine how the water is getting out. The first thing to do is shut off the pump and then add water to the pond (don't forget to add dechlorinator) until the normal water level is re-established. Leave the pump turned off and check the level on an hourly basis. This will help determine if the water loss is due to a hole in the liner or some other problem with the pond itself. If no water loss is observed after a period of four to twenty four hours, then turn the pump back on and again observe the level on an hourly basis. If you notice the level drop, then the problem can be narrowed down to the plumbing, filter, waterfall, stream, etc... If you lose a large amount of water during periods of extreme heat, you may want to cycle the pump off and on for short periods of time to circulate the water and keep from stressing your fish. Other important things to look for are wet areas in the surrounding ground, standing water around skimmers or filters and accumulation of debris in streams or waterfalls that might cause water to escape. With this information it will be much easier for someone to troubleshoot your problem and even make a repair on the first visit instead of having to go through the steps in order to isolate the problem.
Back to topQuestion: Do I need to add dechlorinator every time I add tap water to my pond?
Answer: There are some people who are convinced dechlorinator is one of those products that pond companies are able to sell based on the fear of what would happen if it was not used. If your pond is only home to a few goldfish bought at a big box store then the temptation to skip the dechlorinator might be hard to resist. However, keep in mind that the amount of chlorine and chloramine (look for a dechlorinator that also removes chloramines) can vary throughout the year and what may not be a problem in July could be lethal in January. It is also important to understand that chlorine can do its damage over a long period of time. Elevated chlorine and chloramine levels essentially burn the gills of fish, thus reducing their ability to breathe over time. So while the lack of dechlorinator may not seem to be causing problems at the time you are adding tap water, the damage is building up and your fish are then susceptible to many other stressors that would not harm otherwise healthy fish. Will it be the end of the world if you need to add a little tap water and you are out of dechlorinator? Probably not, especially in a well balanced water garden with a properly functioning bio filter. But if you are adding a significant amount of tap water then dechlorinator is a must. When in doubt be sure to add a reputable product and even add a little extra to be on the safe side. It never hurts to ensure that your fish have the best conditions possible.
Question: Do aquatic plants really make much of a difference in keeping the water in my pond clear?
Answer: The answer to this question often causes confusion for many water gardeners. Simply put, the presence of aquatic plants in a pond or water garden is no guarantee that the water will be crystal clear. If you have excellent mechanical and biological filtration, are meticulous with your maintenance schedule, incorporate a UV light or other algae control program, limit the number of fish and monitor and maintain a proper pH level, then you most likely will experience a high level of water clarity without aquatic plants. However, few water gardens and ponds exist where all the above mentioned factors are maximized properly. Aquatic plants help to make up for any compromises tjat have to be made. For instance, by using floating plants the amount of sunlight can be limited thus helping to maintain water temperatures and limit algae growth in ponds that are located in areas that receive full sun all day long. So just having aquatic plants in your pond won't ensure crystal clear water but by incorporating in marginals, floating and submerged plants you can improve water clarity in any type of pond, water garden or water feature. Visit our Aquatic Plants page for more information regarding how your pond will benefit from the presence of aquatic plants.
Back to topQuestion: Gravel or no gravel on the pond bottom?
Answer: If you ever want to start a fight among pond owners and installers, just bring up the topic of gravel on pond bottoms. In theory gravel is used on the bottom of ponds and water gardens to provide additional area for beneficial bacteria colonies to grow in the interspatial gaps between the stones. In practice the difficulty in keeping the gravel clean and properly oxygenated is simply not feasible due to the manner in which most installers build ponds. Furthermore, the actual recommended installation technique is the use of one inch of pea gravel on the pond bottom. Not once in my nine years of maintaining and troubleshooting ponds and water gardens have I ever run across a pond with either pea gravel or only one inch of gravel, regardless of the size used. It seems the installers in this area find it perfectly acceptable to substitute small boulders and riverstone for the proper pea gravel material. Why? Because one inch of pea gravel will not hide sloppy excavation work, uneven pond bottoms or large folds, creases and improperly installed liners. Plus one inch of gravel is not heavy enough to prevent the liner on the pond bottom from lifting up when a leak occurs and water gets underneath the liner. Yet these same installers still insist that using "gravel" on the pond bottom is the best way to construct a pond. Even in the best of situations the use of gravel in our climate zone is questionable at best for the simple fact that the beneficial bacteria that is purported to grow in the gravel would only exist for about six months out of the year. During the other six months water conditions are not favorable for beneficial bacteria colonies to grow in sufficient numbers to have a positive impact on pond conditions. But other types of harmful bacteria colonies are more than happy to thrive and multiply in the resulting sludge and sediment packed "gravel" layer on the pond bottom. But don't take my word for it.....go visit a pond with gravel on the bottom and dig your hand down into the bottom and see how much black muck you can find. In theory a pond with a gravel bottom should have virtually no debris, sludge or muck on the bottom because the bacteria colonies exist to digest and eliminate such buildup. Again, I have never run across any gravel bottom pond that worked according to the theory. Now add to this the fact that the specified cleaning procedure for gravel bottom ponds is to completely drain the pond, pressure wash the rock, boulders and gravel, pump out the dirty water and repeat the washing process until everything is clean and all the sludge is flushed out of the gravel. If the gravel on the pond bottom really acts as additional space for beneficial bacteria, then why does the pond have to be essentially destroyed each spring by such an invasive cleaning process? Every pond and water garden contains a certain level of what is called bio film on all the surfaces in the pond and the "total drain and wash" cleaning method destroys every bit of this bio film, not to mention the stress it causes for fish (which have to be moved to temporary tanks), the killing of other aquatic life such as dragon fly larvae and tadpoles plus the waste of countless gallons of water used to clean and refill a pond that was supposed to remain clean by the very presence of gravel in the first place. So it goes without saying that I fall on the side of pond construction that does not incorporate gravel on the pond bottom. Want more proof gained from my experiences? When I visit pond owners having trouble keeping their gravel bottom pond clean and in balance, the first thing I recommend is to remove the gravel. Even if that is the only recommendation they follow after my troubleshooting visit, more often than not they experience a significant improvement in water clarity and fish health plus a reduction in the amount of maintenance their pond requires. There are so many more arguments I can make against gravel on pond bottoms that I could fill a few pages at least. Suffice it to say that I am against gravel on any pond bottom. You are free to make your own decision but do so only after doing your homework and researching the pros and cons of using gravel. Don't take my word against the use of gravel any more than you would take the advice of an installer in favor of using gravel. This is one critical issue that you need to be educated on because your decision will impact every aspect of how your pond or water garden performs.
Back to topQuestion: My regular landscaper wants to install my water garden. Why should I hire a water garden company instead?
Answer: First of all, let me say that there are landscapers working in our market that are competent installers of ponds, water featurers and water gardens. The questions you need to ask of your specific landscaper should include whether or not they provide maintenance after the installation is done, do they have a reputable local source for plants, fish and pond products and does their installation training consist of more than a "build a pond in a day" seminar sponsored by the maker of equipment they will use for your job? It should be a cause of concern if a company is willing to perform an installation for you but will not handle the maintenance after the fact. The true knowledge and experience gained in water gardening comes from seeing how a pond or water feature performs year after year. If your landscaper is not doing maintenance, then they have no chance to learn by doing and thus cannot improve their installation skills based on what they learn from maintenance tasks. This goes hand in hand with having a good local source for materials and supplies. Do you really want your installer to send you to a big box store or pet store for your fish, plants and additives? The prices may be cheap but can you expect to find a well trained and knowledgeable staffer on hand to answer your questions? If your installer has such little regard for the products and information you need to care for and enjoy your water garden, how confident does that make you feel in their ability to properly design and build the feature in the first place? Finally, look past certifications and marketing tricks that aim to create an illusion of installation competence. If the only training their staff receives is from a "build a pond in a day" seminar, does that really signify competence at installing all types of water gardens, ponds and water features or does it only show that those staff members can duplicate what they learned in a few hours of "training" on how to install the products of one particular manufacturer? Think of it this way....would you hire someone to install, maintain and upgrade a computer network just because a software vendor trained them how to install one specific program? If you are going to spend your hard earned dollars be very sure you are getting the best value, that the job will be done right the first time and that you can count on your contractor whenever you have a problem or question. Firms that specialize in water gardens are far better equipped and staffed to address the specific knowledge required for a good installation than the average landscaper.
Back to topQuestion: I have been told that water gardens are essentially maintenance free. Is that true?
Answer: In order to keep a water garden healthy and functioning properly, maintenance is required on a regular basis. This includes emptying the skimmer, cleaning filter pads, scrubbing the waterfall rocks, pruning and fertilizing aquatic plants, removing large debris from the pond itself, adding water as needed and checking the water chemistry. The amount of time spent on maintenance can range from as little as one hour to a few hours a week. Water garden design, construction techniques and the components used will all influence the amount of required maintenance. Just be wary of any installer promising a "virtually maintenance free" pond or water garden. After all, the rest of your landscape needs regular maintenance and care and water gardens are no different.
Question: If I put koi in my pond or water garden, will they eat all the algae and keep the pond clean?
Answer: This myth is fairly common and seems to stem from the fact that 'grass carp' are known to feed on plant material including algae. While koi (and goldfish to some extent) will feed on certain types of algae, they will not eliminate algae from a pond. Furthermore, the introduction of fish (or adding too many fish) into a pond or water garden that is not capable of supporting them may cause more problems in the long run, including overloading the bio filter which may produce a green water situation.
Question: I have a small goldfish pond installed by a landscaper. Can I introduce koi into my pond?
Answer: It seems that any pond that someone puts koi into ends up being called a koi pond. However, koi require a bigger area to swim in, more depth and much more effective filtration than the average goldfish pond has. While koi may be able to survive in small and shallow rock and gravel filled ponds, it does not mean that they will thrive. Furthermore, koi will quickly outgrow a small goldfish pond and may suffer injuries from an improper habitat.
Question: The water in my pond turned green and I was told the best thing to do was drain the pond and add new water. Is this correct?
Answer: Before you take a drastic measure like completely draining a pond, it is important to understand what caused the green water situation. More often than not, making a complete water change will only make the problem worse instead of making it better. Algae (and green water) is part of the natural ecosystem in ponds and water gardens and its presence typically indicates something is out of balance in the system. Therefore, avoid making any water changes or adding any treatments to your pond until you have determined the cause of the problem. Otherwise you are forcing the ecosystem to start over from scratch and the problem will repeat itself.
Question: Why does my pond water turn green every spring?
Answer: Most of us experience this frustrating green water condition each spring as temperatures begin to rise and the amount of sunlight increases. Under normal conditions, heterotrophic bacteria work to keep algae under control. These bacteria go dormant or die when water temperatures fall below 50 degrees. Algae, on the other hand, can grow and thrive in water temperatures as low as 38 degrees. Therefore in the spring, the algae gets a head start and begins to grow and multiply well before the bacteria colonies get established. It is during this lag period that the water often turns green. Once the bacteria catch up, the pond will re-establish a healthy balance and the water will clear up on its own.
Question: I am thinking of installing my own water garden. Are the kits sold by the home stores a good value?
Answer: If you can only afford a $99 big box store kit, then I guess it will seem like a good value to you. But in the long run, the cost of this $99 kit is far more once you factor in how quickly the pump will fail, the liner will leak or the filter will stop working properly. Also take into account the time you will spend repairing problems, running back to the store to get pumps replaced or warrantied and the fact that you will likely end up redoing the entire project once you finally get tired of all the problems. Not everyone can afford to purchase the best products on the market but it is always a good idea to purchase the best products your budget can afford, even if it means doing the project in stages. For example, start with a high quality liner and add a good pump and filter at a later time. You can always start by making your water garden a lily pond until you can afford a filtration system capable of supporting fish. Add quality components as you can afford them and let your water garden grow into the enjoyable backyard showpiece you want instead of trying to turn a low quality kit into a high quality project.
Question: I see water garden installations all the time on landscaping shows and Do It Yourself programs. Is it really that easy to install my own water garden? The shows make it look so simple.
Answer: I always get a good laugh when watching the shows you mention. Ever notice they never dig a pond in Indiana clay? Installing a water garden is a project that the average home owner can accomplish but it will not be as easy as the landscaping shows make it seem. Without access to heavy equipment like a Bobcat and a dump truck, the job will require lots of hard work and take more than a few weekend hours. With proper planning and good research, the average home owner can build a great water garden. And if you do run into problems, don't be afraid to call a reputable water garden installer for help. Any professional installer should be willing to provide a little advice to help you through any challenges you face. In addition, if you are going to try building a water garden on your own, establish a good relationship with a local supplier of the products you will need to complete the installation.
Question: I am trying to get rid of string algae in my water garden. I have been advised to use products containing copper sulfate or even bleach. Is this safe for my plants and fish?
Answer: NO! Dealing with algae, especially string algae, can be one of the most frustrating experiences a water gardener faces. However, products like bleach or any algaecide that contains copper can be lethal to your fish and plants. Even in small doses, copper based products will build up in the tissues of fish and lead to a slow and painful death. The labeling on algae control products containing copper almost always carry a warning regarding the danger to fish. Anyone suggesting the use of copper based products, bleach or any other chemical means of removing algae simply does not understand the complex workings of a water garden ecosystem. First you must address the reasons for the algae growth, physically remove as much of it as you can and then, if necessary, treat any remaining string algae with an approved and fish safe product that is not chemical based.
Question: My pond builder told me I must add beneficial bacteria on a weekly basis to keep my water garden functioning properly. Is this good advice?
Answer: The suggestion to add beneficial bacteria on a weekly basis suggests something is out of balance in your water garden. In a properly constructed and well maintained water garden, bacteria colonies will form on there own or can be "boosted" by an initial bacteria seeding in the spring after water temperatures stay above 50 degrees. If your pond or water garden needs weekly beneficial bacteria treatments to keep it functioning properly, then that may indicate poor design or an ineffective filtration system. There are products that are bacteria and enzyme based that address specific situations such as a buildup of organic material or cloudy water but if you have to specifically add benefical bacteria each week, that implies those colonies are dying off instead of growing and thriving in your pond environment.
Question: How do I calculate the volume of my water garden or pond?
Answer: A simple formula to calculate volume is (Length x Width x Depth) x 7.5 = gallons. Thus a 10' x 10' x 3' water garden would hold approximately 2250 gallons. You may need to adjust your final number based on the shape, average depth or amount of rocks or stone in the pond. If you are having a new water garden installed, request that your installer fill the pond using a flow meter so you can get a precise volume figure. If you are building your own water garden and do not have access to a flow meter, use a five gallon bucket and record the amount of time it takes to fill the bucket with your garden hose. Using this figure you can determine the flow rate of your garden hose and then record the amount of time it takes to fill your water garden. This will give you a fairly accurate total volume.
Question: I saw some attractive lilies and other aquatic plants growing next to the dock at my lake cottage. Could I use them in my water garden?
Answer: Not only could you run into trouble with the DNR, it simply is not a good idea to take plants from a natural setting to use in your water garden. Various pests and diseases may be carried by wild plants that could cause problems in your water garden. While all water garden plants came from wild or natural sources, they have been carefully bred and hybridized to perform well in the water garden environment. Even though it may be tempting to uproot and use plants from your lake, stick to known sources of healthy and appropriate water garden plants.
Question: My neighborhood has a retention pond in the community park area. Would it be OK to put my extra goldfish and aquatic plants in the pond?
Answer: No fish or plants from your water garden should ever be placed in a natural waterway or any other body of water like retention ponds. Goldfish and koi can easily reproduce in ponds and may upset the natural balance of the retention pond ecosystem, not to mention the chance that these fish could spread during flooding or high water periods that allow water to escape via a spillway. Also, many aquatic plants may be invasive and should not be introduced into natural waterways. While many aquatic plants like water lilies and cattails are native to this part of Indiana, you should always seek permission from the neighborhood association and the DNR before introducing any plant material into retention ponds.